Start a Mealworm Colony Now, Not in January

Christian here. The days are getting shorter in New Jersey and you can feel it in the barn. Chores happen closer to dark, the birds spend more of the day in the cage, and it's natural to start wondering what else you can give them.

My answer this time of year isn't a new bag of something from the feed store. It's this: if you've ever thought about growing your own mealworms, start now. Not in January. Now.

Why late September is the right time to start

Two reasons, and neither involves a sales pitch.

First, a colony needs time and warmth. Mealworms aren't a switch you flip. You start with live worms and beetles, you keep them warm and dry, and you wait for the colony to build up. Start in fall and you're working with it through winter, which is exactly when your birds are spending the most time in the cage.

Second, shipping live insects gets harder as it gets colder. The starter listing we carry says so plainly: it ships with heat packs and wrapping based on the forecast, and insects can show up dormant in the cold. That's manageable, and I'll cover it below. But an early-fall box is an easier box.

What you actually need

Three things. The growing setup, the insects to put in it, and somewhere in your house that stays warm.

The growing pods

The Mealworm Growing Pods from Hatching Time are a 3-tier vertical system. In the box, per the listing: 3 trays, 3 lids, 1 beetle inlay tray, a plastic tweezer, and 3 carbon filters. They're made from recycled fridge-freezer plastic. $69.99. Mealworms are not included. Don't skip past that line.

The listing puts yield at 150 to 300 grams of live mealworms per tray. I'll repeat that figure because it's on the listing. I'm not going to promise you a number from my own shelf. Your colony, your temperature, your feeding habits.

The starter insects

The Mealworm & Beetle Starter Pack is what goes in the pods. From the listing:

• 1,000 live mealworms (Tenebrio molitor, about ¾" average length)
• 250 freshly hatched darkling beetles, under a week old
• 10% extra mealworms and beetles added to every order
• Bagged separately, shipped in one box, USPS Priority, Hold For Pickup
• USA only. Orders placed by Sunday 1 PM Central ship Monday

$29.99. Heads up: this item runs on its own shipping schedule, not the usual 2–5 business day window on our hatching eggs and supplies. Go by what that listing says.

Where the colony lives (not in the barn)

This is the part that matters most. The pods listing calls for an indoor, well-ventilated spot between 68 and 80°F. The starter pack gives similar care numbers: ideal temperature 68–80°F, humidity 50–70%, and dry bedding to avoid mold and dust mites.

So no, the colony doesn't go in an unheated barn in November. Pick a closet, a basement corner that stays warm, a spare room. Somewhere that doesn't swing hard between day and night and doesn't get damp.

Feeding is simple. The pods listing says to add household vegetable scraps regularly. Keep it dry. Wet bedding is how you end up with a mold problem instead of a mealworm colony.

If the box shows up cold

October and November deliveries can land on a cold porch. The starter listing's instructions for dormant insects:

• Unpack and let air get around the containers
• Keep them at room temperature (64–77°F)
• Don't add external heat
• Spread them gently in their bedding
• Give them several hours to come around

The listing claims a 99% recovery rate when they're handled that way. That's their number, not mine. The part I'd underline: no heat lamp, no radiator. Room temperature and patience.

While the colony builds: something to peck at now

A new colony isn't feeding anybody next week. For something that gives caged birds a job right away, the Quail & Gamebird Knödel enrichment feed ball is a 2-pack for $2.99. It's a hard ball made of a gamebird feed base with a little dried mealworm in it, made in the USA.

How to use it, per the listing:

• Hang it at head height, one ball per 5–10 birds
• Offer it intermittently. It's a supplement, not a complete diet
• Take it out if it gets soiled or softened by humidity. It isn't waterproof, so keep it out of rain
• Always keep feed, grit, and fresh water available alongside it

The guaranteed analysis lists 30% minimum crude protein. The point, though, is behavior. It gives birds something to work at when they're in the cage longer, and that's what this season needs.

What treats won't do

Let me be blunt so nobody's disappointed in December:

• Treats don't replace feed. Your birds' diet is still a proper gamebird ration. Mealworms and feed balls go on top of it.
• Treats don't fix shorter days. Less daylight affects laying. A handful of mealworms won't change that, and I'm not going to pretend it will.
• A colony is a small ongoing chore. Scraps, checking for moisture, separating stages. If you won't touch it for a month, don't start one.

Bottom line

If you want homegrown protein treats this winter, the window to start comfortably is now: pods set up somewhere warm inside, starter insects ordered before the really cold shipping weeks, and a cheap enrichment ball on the cage while the colony gets going.

Questions about setup, or want to see the pods before buying? Stop by the showroom in Bridgewater or message us through the chat.

— Christian